Xanthan gum uses in skincare, haircare, and personal care

Xanthan gum is widely regarded as a simple thickener, but its shear-thinning properties mean it offers broader benefits in personal care product formulation. In addition, product specifications for xanthan gum typically don’t tell formulators, R&D teams, and procurement professionals everything they need to know to select the best-performing grade. 

In this article, we examine some less-understood properties of xanthan gum and their effects on the properties of precision formulations. We then show how understanding these nuances can help you to select the right grade for your application and how consistent product quality is the key to minimising unexpected costs in production.

What does xanthan gum do in skincare products?

Xanthan gum is used in many personal care products, including skincare, where the network-forming ability of its long, hydrophilic polysaccharide chains provides a vital thickening function.

Emulsion and suspension stability. By raising the viscosity of colloid formulations, xanthan gum prevents emulsions (liquid-in-liquid) and suspensions (solid-in-liquid) from separating. This ensures that lotions, creams, and gels maintain a uniform consistency over extended periods, deliver active ingredients to the skin consistently, improve customer satisfaction, and extend product shelf life. [ResearchGate; PMC]

Sensory control. The viscosity-modifying properties of xanthan gum also enable formulators to fine-tune a product’s sensory characteristics, including appearance, texture, spreadability, and skin feel, to meet the needs of the application. [SpecialChem; FormulaChemistry]

Shear-thinning behavior. Xanthan gum is more than a simple thickener. Its pseudoplastic behaviour means viscosity is high at rest but drops when shear stress is applied, such as when a product is stirred, shaken, or spread on the skin. The result is easy, even coverage without sacrificing in-use stability. [ScienceDirect]

A final important factor for formulators is that the unique rheological properties of xanthan gum operate at remarkably low loadings, typically in the range 0.1–0.5% w/w. This helps to keep products ‘clean-label,’ avoids interference with the properties of other components, and makes xanthan gum a cost-effective viscosity-modifying agent in personal care products.

Is xanthan gum safe for skin? 

Yes, xanthan gum has been proven safe for use on skin. Specifically, xanthan gum has clearance for use in cosmetic products under the EU Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009, and has the lowest possible hazard rating of ‘1’ for cosmetics from the US-based Environmental Working Group organisation. Xanthan gum is also classified as ‘GRAS’ (Generally Recognized As Safe) for use in foods by the US FDA, and has no sensitisation risk, with its high molecular weight limiting dermal penetration. [CIR safety report; SAGE Journals safety assessment; PMC — dermal penetration]

Contrary to popular belief, xanthan gum is not produced by a fungus but by a bacterium, Xanthomonas campestris, which is only found naturally on plants and poses no known risk to humans. Following fermentation, the bacterial culture is inactivated, and the xanthan gum is carefully separated to ensure it is completely pure and safe to use.

What your xanthan gum spec sheet isn’t telling you

Specification sheets from most suppliers rarely tell you everything you need to know to ensure your xanthan gum meets the required standard for skincare application. 

Moreover, the data they contain often looks identical across different suppliers, which is unlikely to be the case because xanthan gum is a product of a biological fermentation process. Therefore, the precise polymer architecture, and hence the rheological performance, can vary between batches. [PMC — polymer architecture]

A further problem is that, because Certificate of Analysis (CoA) tests are referenced against the specification sheet, they can also suffer from omissions of key information.

This is where Jungbunzlauer’s xanthan gums for skincare offer an advantage, with our attention to detail in specification information and a wide range of grades. These include grades with fine, normal, and coarse particle sizes; special grades specified for use in (amongst others) clear and dust-free formulations; those with acid- and salt-tolerance; and those offering easy dispersion and reduced pseudoplasticity.

Key grade parameters for personal care

The specification parameters that matter most for personal care applications go beyond those typically listed on a standard CoA. When evaluating a xanthan gum grade for skincare or hair care, formulators should examine the following:

• Viscosity range: measured at a defined concentration (typically 1% w/w in 1% KCl solution), this determines thickening performance and must be specified within a defined tolerance band, not just a minimum
• Particle size: fine, normal, and coarse grades behave differently during hydration and affect the risk of fish-eye formation; grade selection should match the mixing equipment and process conditions in use
• Purity profile: pyruvate and acetyl content influence rheological behaviour; these parameters are set during fermentation and cannot be corrected post-production PMC]
• Clarity performance: specialist clear grades are available for transparent gel formulations, serum bases, and leave-on products where visual clarity is a product requirement
• Mesh specification: dust-free grades reduce handling risk in manufacturing environments and are relevant for personal care plants with open-vessel mixing

Jungbunzlauer’s xanthan gum portfolio spans more than 40 grades, including standard, clear, dust-free, acid-tolerant, and salt-tolerant grades. The breadth of that portfolio is itself a selection tool. If a formulation challenge cannot be resolved with a standard grade, a specialist grade exists rather than requiring the formulator to compromise. 

Grade considerations by format

Questions to ask your xanthan gum supplier

Before qualifying a xanthan gum grade for personal care, the following questions help assess whether a supplier’s documentation and quality processes are adequate for the application:

• What is the viscosity specification range (not just minimum) for this grade, and at what test conditions?
• What particle size distribution data is available, and is it reported per batch or per grade specification?
• Is a clear grade or dust-free grade available, and what are the specification limits for each?
• What is the fermentation origin of this xanthan gum, and in which countries is it produced?
• What certifications cover this grade: FSSC 22000, ISO, COSMOS-approval, non-GMO?
• What is your chlorate testing protocol, and at what frequency is this tested?
• What batch-to-batch viscosity consistency data can you provide across multiple lots?
• Is application support available, including formulation guidance and lot-specific technical data?

Formulation considerations: pH, electrolytes, temperature, and compatibility

When formulating with xanthan gum, several practical factors should be taken into account to ensure good results.

Temperature, electrolyte, and pH stability

Formulations containing xanthan gum typically show little response to changing temperature. This allows them to be pasteurised (heat-treated) or frozen, with their properties recovering upon return to ambient temperature. [ScienceDirect]

Xanthan gum formulations also have excellent stability over the pH range 4–10 and broad tolerance to other electrolytes, with both characteristics distinguishing them from cellulosic alternatives.

Synergies and incompatibilities

As a highly polar polysaccharide with an intricate three-dimensional structure, xanthan gum can interact in complex ways with other components. These interactions need to be taken into consideration when developing and testing a formulation. [PMC]

For example, the presence of salt, alcohol, and cationic polymers can limit the development of viscosity. In contrast, mixing xanthan gum with locust bean gum can yield synergistic effects, while carbomers (synthetic cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid) can have complementary rheological profiles. These incompatibilities are discussed more in our article about how xanthan gum behaves compared to other texturants.

Dispersibility best practice

A common challenge when adding xanthan gum powder to aqueous formulations is the rapid formation of persistent gel-like lumps of unwetted powder, known as ‘fish eyes’. Jungbunzlauer addresses this in the technical article on natural hair styling gel with xanthan gum. 

The risk of fish-eye formation can be reduced by using high-quality grades of xanthan gum. A further common approach is to first wet the xanthan gum powder with glycerin before adding it to the formulation. Additionally, gradual mixing of the xanthan gum under high-shear conditions ensures that, at any given time, only a small proportion of the powder is hydrated and that this occurs rapidly enough to avoid gel formation around regions of dry powder.

Why is xanthan gum batch consistency so important? 

Batch-to-batch variation in xanthan gum properties can significantly affect viscosity performance. This is a problem for formulators because they must reprocess substandard batches of product, reformulate a product, and potentially increase xanthan gum loadings. All of these come with costs in resources and time.

The properties of xanthan gum are primarily defined by the polysaccharide structure and are therefore set during fermentation. Therefore, if a batch of xanthan gum does not meet expectations, it cannot be “corrected” later; the only approach is to ensure the xanthan gum is consistent at the source. [PMC — fermentation variability]

Such rigor is not limited to the aspects covered by standard CoA tests. For example, the presence of disinfectant-derived chlorate in many foods sold in the EU was only uncovered by accident in 2014. There has been no published connection made between chlorate and cosmetic ingredients, but it illustrates that diligence regarding quality should be more than superficial. [EU RASFF]

As a result, it is important to consider the total cost associated with choosing a particular supplier of xanthan gum. For example, a single batch rejection may erase a year of savings achieved through a lower unit price, and this is a risk that should be carefully considered when choosing a supplier. Jungbunzlauer’s commitment to sustainable ingredients and Western manufacturing underpins this consistency. 

Supplier qualifications for sourcing xanthan gum for personal care

Qualifying a xanthan gum source for personal care is a more substantive process than for many commodity ingredients, because the performance-critical properties of xanthan gum are set during fermentation and cannot be corrected downstream. The following qualification criteria are relevant for personal care purchasing decisions.

Manufacturing origin and quality system 

Xanthan gum produced under FSSC 22000-certified conditions provides a documented quality management framework that covers raw material traceability, in-process controls, and finished product testing. Jungbunzlauer produces xanthan gum in Western Europe and North America under FSSC 22000 certification, with manufacturing sites including Port Colborne, Ontario, and European facilities in Pernhofen, Austria, and Ladenburg, Germany.

Contamination risk and testing protocols

EU RASFF alerts have identified chlorate contamination in xanthan gum batches traced to Asian production facilities. [EU RASFF] Chlorate is not covered by standard CoA tests. It requires dedicated analytical testing. Procurement teams sourcing xanthan gum for personal care should request evidence of chlorate testing protocols and frequency as part of supplier qualification. As of the date of publication, Jungbunzlauer’s xanthan gum has not been subject to any EU RASFF chlorate alerts. 

Batch consistency documentation

Because xanthan gum polymer architecture is defined during fermentation, consistent performance requires consistent fermentation. Suppliers should be able to provide historical viscosity data across multiple production lots, not just specification limits. A qualification package from Jungbunzlauer includes lot-specific performance data to support formulator qualification timelines.

Regulatory and certification documentation

For personal care applications, relevant documentation includes EU Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 compliance confirmation, INCI name alignment (Xanthan Gum), and COSMOS-approval status where required by the formulation’s certification programme.

Technical support and grade specificity

Jungbunzlauer’s applications team provides formulation guidance as part of the supplier relationship, including grade selection, compatibility testing guidance, and access to Chicago Connect, the Jungbunzlauer application centre in Chicago, Illinois, for hands-on development work. This level of support is relevant to the total cost of qualification: resolving a grade selection issue early in development is substantially less costly than a reformulation triggered by post-launch batch performance variation. This has been spoken about in relation to xanthan gum in personal care in previous technical articles.